2-7 triple draw
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2-7 triple draw
I've been messing around with 8-games on PokerStars which has made me realise that I don't really know much at all about drawing games and since 2-7 triple draw is the one in the 8-game, I wonder if anyone knows anything about it?
In my head (and strictly at low stakes) it feels like any starting hand of XXXYY where X are unpaired and 8 or lower is a good enough place to be calling the BB, and maybe even calling one raise at a passive table. That might be way off the mark right off the bat of course so that is a pretty important piece of enlightenment I need!
Ignoring any sort of advanced strategy for now, I figure that if we are XXXXY after the first draw using the same rules as above, we are going to be at least calling if not raising right?
After draw 2, what the other players drew seems far more important than on draw 1, and assuming first of all that we don't improve, the decisions become more difficult. This is where I struggle. For example, let's say we make a semi-decent low at this point such as 25678, I guess we should be trying to raise players off the hand as much as possible to prevent some funky outdraws on the third draw? Perhaps that is wrong and we are just shipping money to players who have already made a better low? I don't know the math so I don't know how remote it is that a 25678 can already be losing with one draw remaining.
Enough stabbing in the dark, who knows about this crazy game?
In my head (and strictly at low stakes) it feels like any starting hand of XXXYY where X are unpaired and 8 or lower is a good enough place to be calling the BB, and maybe even calling one raise at a passive table. That might be way off the mark right off the bat of course so that is a pretty important piece of enlightenment I need!
Ignoring any sort of advanced strategy for now, I figure that if we are XXXXY after the first draw using the same rules as above, we are going to be at least calling if not raising right?
After draw 2, what the other players drew seems far more important than on draw 1, and assuming first of all that we don't improve, the decisions become more difficult. This is where I struggle. For example, let's say we make a semi-decent low at this point such as 25678, I guess we should be trying to raise players off the hand as much as possible to prevent some funky outdraws on the third draw? Perhaps that is wrong and we are just shipping money to players who have already made a better low? I don't know the math so I don't know how remote it is that a 25678 can already be losing with one draw remaining.
Enough stabbing in the dark, who knows about this crazy game?
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HalfSugar - King Moderator
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Concerning 2-card draws: in position, you should usually raise or reraise typical opponents with 3 cards to a 7 that include a 2 (such as 2-3-4 and 2-3-7, the most premium 2-card draws), but be wary of holding a 6 (which roughens all draws). Slightly weaker draws to a 7 can often be played (or good 3-card 8's, like 2-3-8 or 2-4-8), but a hand like 876xx is pure trash and should be discarded.
Pretty much any one card draw to an 8 or better should be raised and reraised before the first draw, except maybe a truly rough draw like 8765x. Remember the cardinal importance of drawing smooth, which almost always means you have a 2, and be wary of the 6.
87652 is a massive favorite against any draw with a single draw left (in fact, any Jack low or better is a favorite against a one card draw with one draw to go). However, against someone pat, it doesn't rate to be a favorite most of the time against a competent player (of course, it largely depends on the action). Any 8-7 is hardly a hand I'm looking to put in multiple bets on the final street with.
Pretty much any one card draw to an 8 or better should be raised and reraised before the first draw, except maybe a truly rough draw like 8765x. Remember the cardinal importance of drawing smooth, which almost always means you have a 2, and be wary of the 6.
87652 is a massive favorite against any draw with a single draw left (in fact, any Jack low or better is a favorite against a one card draw with one draw to go). However, against someone pat, it doesn't rate to be a favorite most of the time against a competent player (of course, it largely depends on the action). Any 8-7 is hardly a hand I'm looking to put in multiple bets on the final street with.
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xDiamond_CutteRx - Moderator
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The way I play the game is to just always have a 2 in my hand. Yes there are exceptions, but let's forget about them for now.
The 2 is the most powerful card you can have in your hand. Similar to an A in Stud8. I found that position is absolutely crucial. It's a very difficult spot OOP with a T8 on the last draw not knowing if you should stand pat or draw to the 8. If it's raised UTG and you are going to play a hand, then you are best reraising it if you are not on the button, hoping to knock out players and gain the best position on the table.
Hands with a 6 in can spell trouble. One reason is what DC already said about them being rough draws, but also if you have a hand like 236, a 4 or a 5 will give you a gutshot and will take that other card out of your catching requirements. So basically id you raise with 236, on the first draw you are really hoping to catch a 7, which is not good.
I tend to muck 3 card 8's in all positions except for the cut off, the button and the blinds. I play them in the blinds because I am already in for some money, and play them in CO/Button as more of a steal hand. Think of it like ATo in limit holdem. You don't raise it UTG but you will in LP looking to take down the blinds.
I will tend to play weak pat hands like 97643 on the CO and the button when nobody has entered the pot. I won't get fancy with the hand, I will raise and if I'm called stay pat. I may throw it away on the 2nd draw depending on the action. With those hands you want to be playing HU and not 3 handed.
I may also play these hands aggressively in the SB or the BB if CO or Button has raised.
The real point of this game at least at low stakes (That's all I have played) IMO is to have solid starting hands that contain a 2 and have position. You want to stay away from straight draw type hands. Hands like 7654, 7634 etc are trash in my opinion because all you are looking to catch is a 2 and if there are a few people in the pot, chances are the deuces are out.
Your point about where you struggle. Yes, this is a difficult spot to be in, when you have a rough 8 against two players. It kind of depends on what the action has been before.
Lets say you all drew 1 card on the 2nd draw and you caught the 8. The original raiser PF is the one oop and has bet again. You have the player behind you, should you raise or call?
I think the better play is to call. Yes, you are keeping an extra opponent in and may be outdrawn, but the thing is, if he has a 4 card 7 with a 2 he will probably call 2 bets anyway. If the original raiser has made a 7 he may end up 3 betting you. If player 1 bets and you call and player behind raises, then I think it's safe to say that you're hand and draw are probably dead.
And with all that, a 9 or better is a favourite on the last draw against two players. So it makes sense to just call and stand pat. As a side note, a J or better is a favourite over a draw on the last draw in a HU pot.
The 2 is the most powerful card you can have in your hand. Similar to an A in Stud8. I found that position is absolutely crucial. It's a very difficult spot OOP with a T8 on the last draw not knowing if you should stand pat or draw to the 8. If it's raised UTG and you are going to play a hand, then you are best reraising it if you are not on the button, hoping to knock out players and gain the best position on the table.
Hands with a 6 in can spell trouble. One reason is what DC already said about them being rough draws, but also if you have a hand like 236, a 4 or a 5 will give you a gutshot and will take that other card out of your catching requirements. So basically id you raise with 236, on the first draw you are really hoping to catch a 7, which is not good.
I tend to muck 3 card 8's in all positions except for the cut off, the button and the blinds. I play them in the blinds because I am already in for some money, and play them in CO/Button as more of a steal hand. Think of it like ATo in limit holdem. You don't raise it UTG but you will in LP looking to take down the blinds.
I will tend to play weak pat hands like 97643 on the CO and the button when nobody has entered the pot. I won't get fancy with the hand, I will raise and if I'm called stay pat. I may throw it away on the 2nd draw depending on the action. With those hands you want to be playing HU and not 3 handed.
I may also play these hands aggressively in the SB or the BB if CO or Button has raised.
The real point of this game at least at low stakes (That's all I have played) IMO is to have solid starting hands that contain a 2 and have position. You want to stay away from straight draw type hands. Hands like 7654, 7634 etc are trash in my opinion because all you are looking to catch is a 2 and if there are a few people in the pot, chances are the deuces are out.
Your point about where you struggle. Yes, this is a difficult spot to be in, when you have a rough 8 against two players. It kind of depends on what the action has been before.
Lets say you all drew 1 card on the 2nd draw and you caught the 8. The original raiser PF is the one oop and has bet again. You have the player behind you, should you raise or call?
I think the better play is to call. Yes, you are keeping an extra opponent in and may be outdrawn, but the thing is, if he has a 4 card 7 with a 2 he will probably call 2 bets anyway. If the original raiser has made a 7 he may end up 3 betting you. If player 1 bets and you call and player behind raises, then I think it's safe to say that you're hand and draw are probably dead.
And with all that, a 9 or better is a favourite on the last draw against two players. So it makes sense to just call and stand pat. As a side note, a J or better is a favourite over a draw on the last draw in a HU pot.
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crack - Posts: 2071
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